Summer heat stresses lawns. With proper watering and attention, however, you can keep your grass green and healthy. Consider these tips -

• Measure as you water. Lawns require as much as one-third inch of water per day, or 2.5 inches per week in mid-summer. To measure water application and help determine length of watering time, place a 6-inch deep, or more, straight-sided can in several locations around the lawn. Run sprinklers, then measure the water in each can and average the results. Also keep track of how long it takes to fill the can with the right amount of water so you can determine length of watering time.
• Be aware of water penetration. Water should penetrate about 8-10 inches per application. To determine depth of water penetration, push a rod or screwdriver into the turf and measure how far it goes in. Water deeply and as infrequently as possible. Too much water causes iron chlorosis or yellowing in turf, trees and shrubs. It also carries away fertilizer.
• Know your soil type. This will help determine frequency in watering. In mid-summer, sandy soils need to be watered about every two days. Loamy type soils need water every three to four days, and clay soils need water every four to six days.
• Watch your mowing height. This is an important factor in minimizing lawn stress. Keep the lawnmower blade adjusted at 2.5 to 3 inches. This will reduce water loss to the grass. It will also help keep turf and roots thick, which will reduce weeds. Keep the mower blade sharp to prevent lost moisture through ragged grass blade tips.
• Fertilize your lawn every four to six weeks throughout the growing season. A properly fertilized lawn needs one pound of nitrogen applied per 1,000 square feet.

How to plant a yard

Difficulty: Moderate

Things You'll Need:

• Fertilizer Analyzer
• Fertilizers
• Garden Hoses
• Level Head Rakes
• Organic Matter
• Rototillers
• Soil Test Kit
• Organic Matter
• Stolons, sod or grass seeds

Step 1 - Choose the right type of grass for your climate (Your local Home Depot or Lowe’s can assit you with a proper choice"). Decide whether you will start with grass seed, stolons or sod.

Step 2 - Plant cool-season grasses in early spring or fall. Plant warm-season grasses in late spring to early summer.

Step 3 - Test your soil - send a sample to your local cooperative extension service or a private lab, or test it yourself with a home kit. Find out what nutrients you have and lack, what the pH is, and whether or not you need lime or sulphur. (Or just check with neighbors or a nursery that knows local conditions.)

Step 4 - Improve the soil by spreading 2 to 3 inches of organic matter, such as compost or ground bark, over the planting area. Also spread a starter fertilizer, which is usually high in potassium and phosphorous, if called for after a soil test.

Step 5 - Till the soil to incorporate the organic matter to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Make two or three passes in alternating directions.

Step 6 - In dry-summer areas, consider an irrigation system to simplify watering. Place enough sprinklers or hoses and pipes around to irrigate, or have an in-ground system installed.

Step 7 - Smooth the planting area with a leveling rake.

Step 8 - Sow seed, plant stolons or lay sod over the planting area.

Step 9 - Keep areas moist until grass is firmly established (six to eight weeks on average).

How to plant shrubs

Step 1 - Plant a container-grown tree or shrub in spring or autumn for best results, especially if it's an evergreen. If that timing doesn't fit your schedule, though, any time except midsummer will work, as long as the soil is not bone-dry, saturated or frozen.

Step 2 - Dig a hole that's at least 6 inches wider than the container on all sides and about the same depth. Then roughen up the sides of the hole with your shovel.

Step 3 - Remove the plant from its container even if the label says you don't need to; the roots will spread out more quickly. With a small tree or shrub, it's easy to do this job before you lower plant into its hole; with a larger plant, it's easier to handle if you set it into the hole first and then cut away the container.

Step 4 - Knock a plant out of a rigid plastic container. Simply tilt the pot onto its side, tap it lightly, and gently slide out the rootball. If the container is made of metal or a soft material such as peat, cut the pot away using a knife, clippers or tin snips.

Step 5 - Gently tease out any roots that are encircling the rootball with your fingers so that they are free, taking care not to break up the ball of soil. Then clip off any damaged roots.

Step 6 - Place stakes in the hole if you're planting a tree that will need support.

Step 7 - Set the plant into the hole at the same depth it was growing in the pot, and begin filling the hole, checking as you go to make sure the plant is standing straight up. Add about 4 inches of soil and gently firm it with your foot or a hoe to remove any air pockets. Repeat the process until the hole is filled.

Step 8 - Water slowly to saturate the soil and remove any remaining air pockets.

Step 9 - Use any extra to build a temporary berm at the drip line (the place on the ground directly below the outer edges of the foliage) and water again.

Step 10 - Keep the soil moist for the first year after planting. Mulch to retain moisture, but keep at least 6 inches bare around the trunk. Check frequently; if you see yellow leaves or the soil feels dry, water immediately.

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