For True Built Home, the best thing we can ask for is a satisfied homeowner. We make it our goal to build you exactly the house you want. Just read the testimonies of these customers whose experience with True Built Home was a success: http://truebuilthome.com/success-stories/.
So, a client wanted to get a bit more info about spray foam insulation, and our contractor provide some good content that I thought I would post for future reference.
Lewis, I can certainly speak some towards spray-foam..
Firstly, it depends on the depths of the cavities and how much the owners want to fill in. BASF literature recommends a layer of at minimum 2.5 inches in the walls to obtain that complete air and moisture barrier that most people have as their primary reason for sprayfoaming. When we do that, we typically use an R11 batt over the top of the 2.5 inches to finish filling the cavity 1) for R-value code, and 2) Insulation cannot have a void between itself and the drywall or mold can build from the opposite side. Depending on the market, prices can fluctuate a bit. Filling a cavity with spray-foam is costly and is most times overkill. I didn’t even full cavity spray my own house, I used the above “hybrid system”.
Mostly we use a full cavity spray in retro work where there isn’t enough room to fit batts to make code, and use it in lieu of cutting rigid board into things.
In stick-framed ceilings I like to use at least 3 inches to ensure that air and moisture barrier, per BASF specs, and then overbatt with whatever fills the particular cavity to code be it a vault or a flat ceiling. It can also be sprayed over drywall in a blown-in ceiling situation, which I particularly like as a fan of blown in insulation. We wait for the drywallers to finish their part and then have the crews come in a few days apart to finish up the attic in two phases.
If someone can afford it, sprayfoam is a great way to go. It is health-conscious and aside from the day it gets sprayed in is as green as it could possibly be, and BASF constantly works on making it more so. The air and vapor barrier in a state like this that has constant mold problems is a piece of mind that I know I personally won’t do without, seeing the insides of retro walls on a daily basis. I trust that when I have to open up my own walls to do something they’ll look just about the same way they did the day I got them blown in, even years and years down the road.
Thanks Lewis, hope that helps, any specific jobs you want me to add it as an option/upgrade just let me know in the specs.
Every once in a while we run into a difference of opinion with a client over the finish standard of our garages when they want to have the garage fully sheet-rocked. Some have come under the impression that the finish should be the same as the house, which can be done, but is rarely done if ever. After all, it’s a garage. So to help folks out, we put together some photos and descriptions for you to let you know what we offer for the upgrade to have your garage fully sheet-rocked. If you desire a higher finish, let us know and we can do it for a moderate upgrade cost.
Level 0 is used in temporary construction or if final decoration is undetermined. No taping or finishing is required.
A Level 1 finish is recommended in areas that would generally be concealed from view or in areas that are not open to public traffic. Joint tape need not be covered with joint compound to fulfill the requirements of Level 1. In Level 1, the surface is left free of excess joint compound. Ridges and tool marks are acceptable for a Level 1 finish. This level is often specified in the plenum area above ceilings, in attics, or in service corridors. In some geographic areas this level is referred to as “fire-taping”.
Level 2-this is the finish that True Built Home offers and what is completed at the upgrade price.
In garages, warehouse storage areas and other similar areas where the final surface appearance is not of concern, a Level 2 finish is the recommendation. Level 2 may be specified where moisture resistant gypsum board is used as a tile substrate. Level 2 reads, “All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound and wiped with a joint knife leaving a thin coating of joint compound over all joints and interior angles”. This differentiates Level 2 from Level 1. Joint compound is applied over all fastener heads and beads. The surface is left free of excess joint compound. Ridges and tool marks are acceptable for a Level 2 finish.
Additionally, Level 2 includes the following sentence: “Joint compound applied over the body of the tape at the time of tape embedment shall be considered a separate coat of joint compound and shall satisfy the conditions of this level.” In the past there has been some confusion as to whether tape pressed into joint compound and covered with joint compound in a single operation fulfilled the requirements of Level 1 or Level 2
In areas to be decorated with a medium or heavy hand and spray applied textures or where heavy-grade wall coverings will become the final decoration, a Level 3 finish is recommended. Level 3 states, “All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound and shall be immediately wiped with a joint knife leaving a thin coating of joint compound over all joints and interior angles. One additional coat of joint compound shall be applied over all joints and interior angles. Fastener heads and accessories shall be covered with two separate coats of joint compound. All joint compound shall be smooth and free of tool marks and ridges. Before final decoration it is recommended that the prepared surface be coated with a drywall primer prior to the application of final finishes. Level 3 is not recommended where smooth painted surfaces, light textures, or light- to medium-weight wall coverings become the final decoration.
If the final decoration is to be a flat paint, light texture or lightweight wall covering, a Level 4 finish is recommended. As stated in Level 4, “All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound and shall be immediately wiped with a joint knife leaving a thin coating of joint compound over all joints and interior angles. Two separate coats of joint compound shall be applied over all flat joints and one separate coat of joint compound shall be applied over interior angles. Fastener heads and accessories shall be covered with three separate coats of joint compound. All joint compound shall be smooth and free of tool marks and ridges.” It is recommended that the prepared surface be coated with a drywall primer prior to the application of final finishes.
In severe lighting areas, flat paints applied over light textures tend to reduce joint photographing. Paints with sheen levels other than flat as well as enamel paints are not recommended over this level of finish. Special attention should be paid to long corridors, large areas of wall, and large/multiple windows when specifying Level 4, because these areas are potential areas of concern in achieving acceptable wall finishes, and may need to be specified appropriately.
Level 5 finish is recommended for areas where severe lighting conditions exist and areas that are to receive gloss, semi-gloss, enamel or non-textured flat paints. Level 5 requires all the operations in Level 4. Additionally, a thin skim coat of joint compound, or material manufactured especially for this purpose, is applied to the entire surface. A thorough explanation of “skim coat” is given in the comments section of GA-214.
A skim coat of joint compound is intended to conceal small imperfections in joints and on the surface of the gypsum board to help conceal joints and create the appearance of flatness. A skim coat will also smooth the texture of the paper, minimize differences in surface porosity, and create a more uniform surface to which the final decoration can be applied.
Here at True Built Home we listen to the desires and needs of our clients. We are getting more and more requests for bigger homes, 3 car garages, and what’s come to be a staple for many of our homes and clients, a large covered porch. Below we are putting the finishing touches on what we are calling The Jasmine. Please enjoy and if you can recommend anything that you feel will make this home better, please let us know at firstname.lastname@example.org. The home is 3038 sq-ft, a 3 car garage, approximately 400 sq-ft of covered porch, and a all hip roof. Please recall that our designers, on the outside and even on the inside of the home, have taken some liberties to enhance and help folks imagine even more possibilities with the home. Please contact us for pricing at email@example.com
True Built Home is glad to introduce the Jasmine, 3038 sqft with 3 car garage and optional 400+ sqft covered porch. Perhaps with the news below, you might be in the market for a new home too!
The Wall Street Journal reports that new home sales in August surged to, get this 18%. That is the highest percentage gain since 2008. You may recall that 2008 was in the early parts of a “greater recession”.
Are you still thinking about buying land, and going with one of the several and popular on your lot builders? If so, please consider True Built Home.
Did you know that most if not all of our clients have walk in equity? Couple that with award winning products such as our EverStrand Carpet, JD Powers Rated number 1 faucet manufacture Moen and a limited lifetime guarantee for our roofing and our standard siding package you end up with a home that is heads and shoulders above our competitors “starter homes” or “budget level entry home”. Why not settle for more!
True Built Home has for a long time wanted to distance itself among our competitors that offer very basic features in order to sell homes. For instance, photo finish trim (plastic covered wood) hollow plastic photo finish doors, cheap flooring such as carpets and vinyls and in some cases, plastic faucets honestly makes what they offer a “starter or budget home”.
Give this some strong and compelling thought when comparing us with other popular “on your lot builders” Our standard home comes with;